Cheeses for Autumn

My favorite cheeses and pairings for fall as a cheese monger of over 12 years

My family has owned a cheese shop or fromagerie since 1976 and were some of the first to bring imported cheeses to the Midwest. I grew up enjoying cheese boards with my father, making Raclette for Christmas instead of roast ham, and having camembert and baguette in my lunch sack on more than one occasion. It was a privileged upbringing, especially for a Colorado girl. The farmhouse cheese movement has become more known throughout my adult life and young people are excited about charcuterie boards but this is very new. Growing up here, it was rare to see undyed cheddar or anything but pre-sliced or shredded cheese. I didn’t realize that this knowledge was unique or special until I was about 15 when I started officially working in the shop with my family and talking to people from all over the world about cheese, cured meats, confits and mustards. The best part of this job, besides trying new yummy cheeses often, was connecting with people over something universally loved. Cheese can make strangers into friends very quickly. I have now been a monger and chef for over 12+ years and I have had the honor of traveling and living in different parts of Europe and seeing how the cheeses I grew up loving are made. 

As the title of this blog implies, I am passionate about all things seasonal, most of all food. Cheese is no exception. As the weather changes so do our cravings and what our bodies need. Most of the cheeses on this list are high in protein and good fats. All things that are necessary to stay healthy in the cold weather!

Harbison from Jasper Hill Farm

Greensboro, Vermont

When discussing our favorite fall cheeses with my father, a monger of more than 35 years, the first cheese that came to mind for both of us was Harbison. This is a soft-ripened cheese with a rustic, bloomy rind, made from pasteurized cow's-milk. The small wheels are wrapped in strips of spruce harvested from the woodlands of Jasper Hill. Harbison is a dynamic cheese that changes as it ages, but is equally amazing served young or old and both offer unique opportunities to enjoy. The young Harbison is best served at room temperature, bark removed and sliced into sharing sized portions. The more aged cheese can be left in the bark and scooped from the top as it becomes far more gooey and spreadable throughout the aging process. 

Another option that may be my favorite is to cut off the bloomy rind from the top, leaving the cheese in the bark case, add a few slivers of garlic and rosemary to the flesh and broil in the oven for 2-4 minutes until bubbling and hot! Serve with lingonberry jam and crunchy bread. 

This is a versatile cheese when it comes to wine selection but I love a slightly sour beer or dry cider from Normandy.

Rogue River Blue from Rogue Creamery

Rogue Valley, Oregon

Named World Champion at the 2019/20 World Cheese Awards, this is a truly seasonal cheese that deserves every accolade and earns the steep price tag. The cooler temperature in the Rogue Valley brings new life to the pastures and it’s only during these months that the limited edition Rogue River Blue is created. It is a visually stunning cheese and the flavor lives up to the appearance. After 9 to 11 months in aging caves at Rogue Creamery, each wheel is hand-wrapped with organic, biodynamic Syrah grape leaves that have been soaked in pear spirits. On the Autumnal Equinox each year the Rogue River Blue Cheese is released. This is a vegetarian friendly cheese as they use vegetarian rennet in the production. Best enjoyed at room temperature with a simple cracker, preferably sourdough, and a glass of pear brandy. For a more elaborate spread add fresh or dried figs and candied walnuts.

Wensleydale with Cranberries

England

Wensleydale is one of the oldest cheese varieties in England. There are records of Monks making Wensleydale all the way back in the 11th century. This is a fabulous cheese on its own: nutty, slightly sweet and agreeable with a touch of acidity. Wensleydale is taken to another level with the addition of plump cranberries which creates a wonderful juicy fall flavor that compliments the season and is great served as a French style cheese course, after dinner with a digestif, or as an appetizer for your Thanksgiving meal. Serve with Cognac after dinner or sparkling wine such as Mumm’s Brut Prestige.

Chällerhocker

Swiss Alps

It wouldn’t be an Autumnal cheese list without a stunning Alpine cheese. This genre of cheeses is definitely one of my favorites. This is a very approachable Swiss cheese, with no astringent flavors. This cheese's top notes are toasted almonds, brown butter, with a touch of butterscotch and a tiny aftertaste of sour cream. It’s no wonder this cheese has a cult-like following as it was created and made under the care of famed cheesemaker Walter Räss. Chällerhocker is washed in wine and spices and aged for a minimum of 10 months in the Lutisburg cellars in the canton of Saint-Gallen, Switzerland. Delicious melted, added to your favorite fondue recipe or enjoyed at room temp in which case you can admire the crystalline salty pockets throughout the interior. Serve with chilled Chardonnay or a toasty Belgium Ale. Cider is also a popular choice, especially when melted and served with cornichon pickles!

I hope you get the chance to enjoy some of these wonderful fall cheeses!

Thank you for reading. À bientôt!

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