There are few things more starkly different in France and the United States than poultry. I won’t get into the nitty gritty of what all goes on in the USA when it comes to meat production, as we all sadly know it, but I will take a moment to rave about the transparency, quality and care that go into raising chickens in France. When you stroll into any reputable boucherie across France, you’ll find a very different display than those in supermarkets. A wide variety of sausages, every cut from the cow and pig with little going to waste, and whole chickens with heads and feet still attached. In truth this was a bit jarring when I first moved abroad as it really makes you face that you are eating a once living thing, and as someone who was vegetarian for over 18 years, I still struggle with this reality. However, what I do enjoy are the signs accompanying the various offerings. Not one colorless, waxy chicken on offer but a variety of breeds stemming from different regions. Poulet du Périgord, Faverolles from Eure-et-Loire just Southwest of Paris, Coucou de Rennes from Brittany, and my favorite, Poulet de Bresse from Eastern France known as the “Queen of Table Poultry” and is an AOC-protected breed. These signs and labels will often include at minimum the village they are from and sometimes the exact farm where they were raised. The boucher/bouchère take great pride in what they sell and will tell you honestly their favorite breeds, preparations and explain the quality of each product. I love this exchange; it is the quickest way to be embraced in France: connecting over good food.
Long story somewhat short, I was food shopping in Sothern France and came across an exceptional boucherie and proudly on display in the front window was the Poulet de Bresse and I couldn’t resist. The nights are still cool enough to turn on the oven for extended amounts of time although I know this will come to an end very soon with summer fast approaching! For this delicate, delicious bird, you don’t need much to make it exceptional, perhaps some fresh herbs, a lemon and some garlic. But this story is not of the fabulous Sunday night roast chicken that was enjoyed with a terrific rosé from nearby Bandol and ultra crispy potatoes. No, this is a story of leftovers, a rainy Monday night and a pile of green leeks and spring herbs that were dying for my attention.
As we are only two, I often struggle to portion meals correctly. You would think I have a house full of children with the way I often cook but the beauty of this is that we frequently have delicious leftovers making the weekdays a bit less busy, a sort of unintentional meal planning I suppose.
Allow me to set the scene: a rainy and grey Monday, too many emails, the radiator not quite keeping up with damp cold seeping under the doors. The horizon meets the crashing waves in the same gloomy shade with no sunlight expected for a day or two. In the kitchen, the leftovers of a gorgeous roast chicken, relished the night before with windows open. What goes with rain? The American in me thought of chicken pot pie, the ultimate comfort food, but the gorgeous leeks beckoned to be included and thus a new favorite was born, the roast chicken and leek pie.
Normally I would not use such a prestigious bird in this kind of dish, but I also refuse to let it go to waste and I will say we enjoyed both preparations equally! Of course, if you do not have access to the chicken of Bresse, you can use any organic, roasted chicken. I have found some wonderful producers in my little town in Colorado that do not indulge in any scary, cheap tactics. Check out your local farmers market or ask around, I’m sure you’ll be surprised by the quality and flavor you can find outside the traditional supermarkets.
Roast Chicken & Leek Pie
Ingredients:
½ roast chicken, cooked and shredded, 2-3 cups of meat
2 large or 3 small leeks, cleaned, trimmed and sliced
2 garlic cloves, minced
1 tbsp olive oil
1½ tbsp all-purpose flour
½ cup chicken stock
½ cup heavy cream
1 tsp fresh tarragon, sliced
1 tsp fresh thyme
1 tbsp Dijon mustard
½ tsp nutmeg
Puff pastry, thawed
1 egg, beaten
Preheat your oven to 400F
In a large skillet, heat olive oil over medium heat. Once hot, add the leeks and cook, stirring often, until soft and translucent. About 5 minutes.
Stir in the garlic and cook for 1 minute until fragrant.
Sprinkle the flour over the leek mixture and stir well. Cook for 2 minutes before gradually pouring in the chicken stock. Bring to a simmer and pour in the heavy cream. Stir until combined.
Add in the herbs, seasonings, and mustard. Simmer for 3-5 minutes until thickened but still creamy.
Add the shredded chicken to the pan and stir until all the ingredients are well mixed. Remove from heat and let cool for 10 minutes.
Roll out the puff pastry on a lightly floured surface, cut in half to fit your pie dish, leaving an overhanging edge of at least 1/2”. Keep the left over for the crust.
Pour the filling into the prepared pastry.
Cover the filling with the remaining puff pastry, pressing the edges to seal. Trim any excess and cut a few slits in the top for steam to escape. If you have extra pastry, you can add a couple pastry leaves which elevate the appearance but are totally unnecessary!
Brush the top of the pastry with the beaten egg to glaze.
Bake in the preheated oven for 25-30 minutes, or until the pastry is golden.
Once done, remove from the oven and let cool for a few minutes before serving.
Serve with roasted potatoes, a simple green salad and a glass of something cold and refreshing!
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Thank you for reading. À bientôt!
xx,
Arenia